Here are the installation steps we've performed when we upgraded OUR single-zone forced air, oil HVAC system to a 2-zone system with 2 smart Thermostats. We've replaced our original thermostat (Room 1) with a wired 7-day Programmable remote-control (via the Internet) thermostat. We've also added a Wireless Thermostat system (Room 2), that now controls the temperature in our upstairs master bedroom.

We've added a 2-Zone HVAC controller, and installed 2 whisper-quiet Electronic Dampers.

The following diagram and installation steps are for ILLUSTRATION PURPOSES ONLY.

• Disconnect the power to your heating system by turning its circuit breaker OFF.
• Mount the HVAC 2-Zone Controller close to the Heater/AC system. Disconnect the 18 - 22 GA Thermostat wires from the Heater/AC and reconnect these wires to Zone 1 of the HVAC Zone Controller. Make sure that you have a C (common) wire if you are replacing your current thermostat with our 7-day Programmable Thermostat (most often you'll have an extra wire in your thermostat cable -- if not you'll have to run one. If you want to use the thermostat's humidity control module you'll run another wire (that connects to the whole-house Humidifier unit.)
• If you have a 2 story home, Thermostat 1, replaces in Room 1, your current hard-wired Thermostat. This thermostat can be controlled from at-home, as well as away-from-home. Note: replacement of your existing Thermostat is not necessary if you're happy with it.
• Upstairs (Room 2), mount on a wall the Thermostat part of the wireless Thermostat System. Mount the Receiver part of the wireless Thermostat System next to the HVAC Zone Controller. Connect, via 18 - 22 GA Thermostat wire, the Receiver terminals to the corresponding Zone 2 terminals of the HVAC 2-Zone Controller. Connect, via 18 - 22 GA Thermostat wire, the HVAC Zone Controller's "HVAC System" terminals to the Thermostat terminals of your Heater/AC system.
• Program your Thermostats for the proper heating and cooling temps. Turn Thermostats OFF.
• Connect the Red & Black terminal wires of the Low-Voltage 24V Power supply to the corresponding Red & Black terminals of the HVAC Zone Controller. Double check ALL of your connections. Plug 24 V Power supply into a 110V outlet. Turn your heating system's circuit breaker ON.
• Turn on the Zone 1 Thermostat and check your Heating/AC system for proper functioning. Repeat with the Zone 2 Thermostat.
• When everything works so far, install the electronic Duct Dampers into the appropriate Zone 1 and Zone 2 branch feeds. Our Zone 1 Thermostat is located in the Living room, thus we've put a Damper into its branch pipe. We've also put a second Damper into the Upstairs bedroom (Zone 2) branch feed.
• Disconnect the 24V Power supply from the HVAC Zone Controller. Run 18 - 24 GA wires from each Damper to the HVAC Controller. Connect the living room damper wires to the Zone 1 Damper terminals of the Zone Controller. Connect the bedroom damper wires to the Zone 2 Damper terminals of the Zone Controller. Plug back the 24V Power supply. Run thru Zone 1 and Zone 2 Thermostat controlled heating and cooling cycles to verify proper damper operation.

NOTE: In a multi-zone system, you'll also need to install a Barometric Pressure Relief Bypass Duct duct to prevent over pressure buildup that may damage the system. This duct is installed just ahead of the blower. It opens and redirects some of the airflow back into the blower intake when pressure builds up due to many dampers being closed. This mechanical bypass duct is continuously variable, and the pressure relief level is easily adjustable. Consult a HVAC professional for the proper sizing of the Barometric Pressure Relief Bypass Duct.

It is always a good idea to allow for future expansion: So, instead of initially installing a 2-Zone HVAC controller, you could install a 4-Zone HVAC controller for not that much more money. Just as with a 2-Zone HVAC controller, you can attach up to two (2) Dampers/zone. So, a 4-Zone HVAC controller allows you to attach up to eight (8) electronic Dampers. The wireless Thermostat Receiver -- that you've purchased for your 2-zone installation -- can accomodate up to three (3) additional wireless Thermostats (to be placed in various rooms for even better zone control).

Single-Zone HVAC Management & Installation:

A really elegant way to address the problem of one or more rooms that need to be heated/cooled differently from the rest of the house is to use a single zone Smart Damper system. Purchase a Premium Whisper-quiet smart Damper -- bundled with a wireless Thermostat and a wireless receiver. The smart Dampers are available in seven (7) sizes. When the thermostat calls for heating or cooling, the damper remains closed until a sensor in the damper determines whether the air in the duct is warmer or cooler than called for. If the room needs heat but the duct air is cold, the damper remains closed. Conversely, if the room needs cooling but the duct air is warm, it remains closed. Powered by your HVAC system's 24VAC circuit (or, a 24V power supply.) Made in the USA by Jackson Systems. Here is how it works:

• The battery powered, auto-changeover thermostat communicates via an RF wireless data link to the damper control module located on the damper.
• The automatic changeover duct sensor located on the damper senses whether there is warm air or cool air in the branch supply duct. If the wireles thermostat is calling for cooling and the duct sensor determines there is cool air in the duct, the damper will power open; otherwise, the damper will remain closed. If the thermostat is calling for heating and the duct sensor determines there is warm air in the duct, the damper will power open; otherwise, the damper will remain closed.
• The thermostat is to be located in the area being controlled by the zone damper and away from the HVAC unit thermostat. Do not install the thermostat in an area where drafts are present, near the floor, behind doors or on an external wall. Avoid placing the thermsotat in areas where the air movement is limited, affected by direct sunlight or other areas not typical of the temperature in the space.

About Sun-tunnel control: Did you know?

An interesting application for Dampers and Timers is Sun-tunnel control. For example, a Normally Closed (N/C) 24-VAC Damper, controlled by a TimerLinc Timer, can be used as an automatically operated sun tunnel. Here is how to wire it up:

• Purchase the desired size N/C Damper, the ,TimerLinc Timer, a SwitchLinc Relay, and a 24V Power supply.
• Install a double-gang electrical box in the vicinity of the sun tunnel.
• Disconnect the power to the circuit that you are going to extend to the new electrical box by turning its circuit breaker OFF. Connect an unswitched line voltage cable (14/2 or 12/2) to the electrical box you've just installed. Install and wire (black to black, white to white, ground to ground) to the SwitchLinc Relay. Connect the RED wire of the SwitchLinc relay to the hot (yellow) input of the receptacle (so that the SwitchLinc Relay will control the receptacle). Also connect the white wire to Silver input of the receptacle. Connect the Ground wire to the receptacle. Attach the electrical box faceplate, then turn the circuit breaker back ON.
• Connect the 24V leads of the power supply to the Damper. Plug the 24V power supply into one of the receptacles. Plug the Timer into a NEARBY receptacle (that is on the same circuit as the newly istalled electrical box). Program the Timer.
• Test for proper operation. If you used a N/C (normally closed) Damper for the sun tunnel, you'll program the Timer to send a signal to the SwitchLinc relay to turn ON, i.e, enable electric flow to the receptacle, thus energize the 24V Adapter. This will open the sun tunnel damper. You'd program the Timer to shut OFF the SwitchLinc relay when you want the sun tunnel closed. You can also manually open/close the sun tunnel by toggling the SwitchLinc relay.